Okonomiyaki / お好み焼き

Despite arriving by bus in the Shinjuku area (west) of Tokyo, we took the train to Tokyo (east) station especially so we could eat お好み焼き at きじ (Kiji), as we'd seen some good reviews online. Arriving at about 13:20 there was a queue of about 25 people, which meant nearly a 40 minute wait! Needless to say we were pretty hungry upon entering, and luckily we were given seats at the counter which meant some great views of the okonomiyaki being prepared by the four chefs.

 We ordered a pork and a beef, and watched them being made. The first photo is actually half the pork one and half the beef one - they divided them both in two for the two of us to share. They pile on the spring onion, and under that is the usual brown okonomiyaki sauce. Once we'd finished we agreed that the beef one was the best, so we couldn't help ourselves ordering another one to share. The beef it turns out is called 牛筋, pronounced 'gyusuji', and is the beef that surrounds the tendons/sinew of the cow which is softened for hours before serving. Doesn't sound so appetising written here, but it was really tender and delicious; hence us ordering two of them!

 I was in a great position to take some photos of the chefs creating a lot of different types of okonomiyaki all at once. In the photo of all of them together you can see, from left-right front-back: squid, pork, octopus, shrimp, beef (牛筋 like ours) and squid again. Once they're actually cooking they use the metal shields to make sure the customers don't get fat splattered at them. I have to say too that the customer service was really timely; they kept topping up our water, bringing sauces and toothpicks at the right time, and even new plates and napkins when we ordered the extra okonomiyaki. The whole meal was 3160 yen (about 20 pounds).

 After exiting the restaurant about 14:40 there were still more than 15 people waiting outside. It's certainly a popular place, and not without reason; it was very tasty! I'll definitely be back.

Tokyo redux

Off to Tokyo today for a couple of nights, so I've created this album to share any interesting photos I come across during the trip.

Photo Key:

1-3) On the journey to Tokyo the bus always stops at the Yokokawa (横川) service area. (Props to the BMW GS1200 motorbike parked up, very envious.)

4) The queue outside きじ when we arrived for lunch on Sunday. More photos and a write-up here.

5) No accounting for taste! Hato Bus is a company in Tokyo organising bus tours in and around the city. Never been on one myself, but their buses are easy to spot because they're bright yellow. Obviously somebody working there loves Hello Kitty.

6) Something I haven't seen before. It's a price list of train tickets to all available stations, written in braille.

7) Tommy Lee Jones looking up at Tokyo Tower while enjoying a can of Boss coffee. Some of his amusing adverts for Boss coffee are on YouTube.

8-14) These were taken in and around Shiba Park (芝公園). I like the fact that in photo 10 the Tokyo Tower is reflected in the windows of the modern Atago Mori Tower. Photo 11 is the gate at the entrance to the Zojoji (増上寺) temple grounds, and numbers 12-14 combine Zojoji with Tokyo Tower.

15) View from the pedestrian bridge south of Shinjuku station, looking towards the huge Takashimaya Times Square department store complex and NTT Docomo's Yoyogi Tower (which looks a bit like a huge Big Ben).

16) Back at Yokokawa service area on the way home, a drink vending machine like you've never seen before! More than just giving you a huge range of hot and cold drinks to choose from, numerous cameras inside the machine actually show you your drink being made on the screen near the top. My "chocolattino" with Cinnamon topping took a couple of minutes to make, from the Columbian coffee beans dropping down, to the cup with lid making its final journey out of the hole at the bottom. Very impressive! And 200 yen per cup (about £1.30).

A couple of new dishes for dinner at Ichibun

Tonight we went to Ichibun like many times before, and we got to try a couple of great new dishes.

 First was a jacket potato with spinach and ham. Second was a thin okonomiyaki with tomato ketchup and mayonnaise on top (which we spread over the top before eating).

 Finally after the usual ramen we were given some deliciously sweet yoghurt-flavour ice cream to finish with.

Enough money for a huge TV or a new MacBook Pro!

But no, I won't be buying either of those. Instead it's for a Lasik eye operation early next week.
 
I drew out the 310,000 yen (just over 2000 pounds) on the way home today, but I'm not relishing the thought of carrying that much cash with me to Tokyo. I'm not worried about it getting stolen; just that I might lose it or something. Guess I'd best be extra careful with my bag!
 
Hoping for a good result from the op, to go from about -12.5 to about -3 or so. Fingers crossed!

Having an onsen to myself for an after-lunch dip

After our Jingisukan lunch we had already planned to go for a relaxing bath in the onsen constructed inside the same building as the restaurant. As there was nobody else there in the men's bath I managed to get some photos of the bathing and changing areas. It's a very small onsen with just a single bath - and no outside bath despite initially looking like there might be - but there was a nice view from the window.
 
The place is called Sagirisou (さぎり荘) in Shinshushinmachi (信州新町), which is about 30 minutes south-west of Nagano city by car. It was a great day out in all, and the weather was pleasantly cool.

Cooking and eating Genghis Khan for lunch

Great title that. In Japanese, our lunch for today has the name Genghis Khan (ジンギスカン). Basically it's mutton and vegetables, which you cook yourself on a grill at your table yakiniku-style - which allows you to decide yourself how rare you want the food - then dip it in a sweet garlic sauce before eating. The plate of meat and vegetables in a size meant for three people came with rice, tofu, miso soup and kimchi for each of us.
 
It was pretty good, but a little chewy for my taste. Quite pricey too at 1500 yen each (about 10 pounds) but something I had to try having not had it before. On the way out I noticed some posters on the wall introducing some of the sheep that they've presumably bred and then slaughtered to serve to their customers. I found myself wondering if these photos were supposed to tempt you into eating the mutton here. The girls of course just said 'かわいい' ("cute") which was a little surreal considering they had probably just eaten one of their siblings.

Out for a drive today - first stop Hakuba

Now off for lunch and onsen in Shinshushinmachi (信州新町).

View from my balcony: clouds over the mountains

Late this afternoon I caught a view of some great colours and cloud formations, but I wish I had a way of capturing it as a panoramic photo. (I know, there's an app for that.)

 The raised train track going through the middle is for the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Tokyo.

オムライス and プリン at Poco-a-Poco

This evening, before heading to the cinema to see The Taking of Pelham 123 (which is your average action flick), we went for a meal at one of our old favourites, Poco-a-Poco. Their オムライス (chicken and vegetable fried rice with an omelette on top, pronounced 'omrice' from the English omelette-rice) is legendary; our favourite of anywhere we've ever eaten it. We like it mostly because instead of the usual Japanese オムライス which is made with tomato ketchup, the オムライス at Poco-a-Poco is made with Worcester sauce (yes, the proper Lea & Perrins stuff). They also make their own chunky tomato sauce to go with it which finishes it off a treat.

 We always order the home-made bread rolls as an accompaniment, a large green salad, and finally their huge home-made プリン. Pronounced 'purin', it comes from the word 'pudding' but unlike the generic English term for dessert, in Japanese it means a dessert identical to creme caramel. Again theirs at Poco-a-Poco is top-notch; I have yet to eat a better one anywhere.

Delicious huge grapes

Dad would have certainly loved these grapes! The bunch of purple grapes alone are sold for 2000 yen (about 12 pounds) so it's a good job we enjoyed them. They're called Shinano Purple and are seedless, as are the red and green ones.

 The red ones were the sweetest and most like the grapes in the UK. The green ones also had a sweet taste but also strong and wine-like, so they were my least favourite. The purple ones were not sweet but had a real full taste, very nice.

Six-dish feast at Ichibun

Due to a chain of unforseen events involving a thunderstorm and the consequential stoppage of all outbound trains(!) we ended up at Ichibun again this evening.
 
After stepping inside we were immediately given a dish of おから (okara - fried soy pulp and vegetables) - I wish I'd taken a photo but unfortunately I was so surprised to see it (as I love the stuff) that I wolfed it down before I remembered to take one. After seeing the evening menu we immediately decided to try the モヤシのオイスターソース炒め (bean sprouts and pork fried in oyster sauce) and salami pizza and they were great, particularly the bean sprouts as they were really salty (I love salty).
 
Of course those were just a starter really (erm) so we then went with 生姜焼き (pork in ginger on rice) and their ramen. Finally the restaurant owner brought us out desserts of home-made orange-flavour jelly (again no photo due to wolfing, sorry) which was a great finish.
 
The whole meal cost us 1800 yen (about 12 quid), superb.

My love of foreign languages

I thought I'd write something about my love of languages, as aside from food(!) it's my main interest and I guess you could say hobby; it's where I spend my available spare time. One of the people I respect in this area is polyglot Steve Kaufmann who, despite being in his early 60s, speaks twelve languages, and recently managed to attain a reasonably-high level of Russian within just 2 years! Well I can only dream of reaching that level, but I do plan to enjoy trying.
 
Japanese
As of right now I've been living in Japan for just over two years, and during that time I spent about 18 months at a Japanese language school learning Japanese, graduating back in March. In December 2007, a short few months after arriving in Japan, I passed the JLPT level 3, and then last December I passed JLPT level 2. After taking the exam though I was feeling pretty burnt out from exam preparation, and almost completely stopped studying Japanese. Even since then despite numerous people asking me if I'd go on to take JLPT level 1 (the top level) this year, I haven't felt the desire to continue the intense study required, and consequently I think I will leave it as a goal for a few years' time.
 
Spanish
However that burnout in Japanese hasn't stopped my desire to pick up other languages, and since I left the Japanese language school I've started Spanish. It should be reasonably straightforward with my previous knowledge of the Italian language, and I have a Mexican friend in Japan, and thus an opportunity to use it.
 
Italian
Recently though after becoming a little disappointed with my lack of ability to recall and use the (conversational-level) Italian I'd gained 7-8 years previous, I've decided that recovering that ability should be priority number one. So aimed with a couple of books using simple pictures and only Italian, I'm moving through it at quite a quick pace.
 
Back in 2001 I moved to Italy (Milan) with my company, and although I only lived there a very short six months, I picked up a reasonable knowledge of the language through the opportunity of speaking it every day. Unfortunately after that time was up I stopped using it completely, and so it became fainter and fainter. However that opportunity kicked off my interest in languages, as my only experience before that was GCSE French back in high school - and although I studied French from ages 11 to 16, I retained very little as the classes just weren't made to be very interesting.
 
Mandarin Chinese
In the middle of last year I also kicked off some Chinese study, as I have a real interest to visit Taiwan and to re-visit China, and figured it was a bit of a natural progression from the kanji characters of Japanese to the hanzi characters of Chinese. Japanese kanji characters came from China originally, but although the way of writing and meanings are often similar, the way of reading/pronouncing the characters is very different. That plus the fact that there are many thousands more hanzi than kanji required for daily use, and with its having four distinct tones when speaking, meant it would certainly be a challenge. But armed with ChinesePod - and later a book on Chinese written in Japanese - I managed to pick up (and retain even now) a few basic greetings which I plan to build on at a later date.
 
French
Returning finally to the French which I learnt back in high school, last year on a visit to the UK I was able to hire a motorbike and I rode over to France with a friend. It soon became apparent that I really couldn't remember even a little French. Any time I tried to think of the words, Japanese (or even Italian) came out. I was pretty shocked and embarrassed that I couldn't even muster the words to order a drink, and after returning to the UK I swore I'd get some of that French back doing some evening classes. This remains a goal for 2010.
 
With that all said then, I'd like to imagine that eventually (i.e. within 10/20/30 years) my list of languages and abilities will look something like this:
- Japanese (native)
- Italian (advanced)
- Spanish (intermediate)
- French (intermediate)
- Mandarin (basic)
 
That's my goal. Merely a fantasy? Perhaps, but it's good to dream. Here for amusement is my current collection of language books (thanks to the wonderful Delicious Library software). There's quite some bias towards Japanese, however I still possess a reasonable amount of Italian language books which are stuck in my parents' loft and thus haven't been entered into DL as yet.

Beef katsu bento

As I was due to be travelling on the bus back to Nagano between 17:40 and 21:30 I thought I'd get a bento box from the Takashimaya department store food hall.

Have to say it was really good! Under the katsu were caramelised onions and the sauce was a bit sweet, not like normal katsu sauce. A winner for sure, and not too expensive at 999 yen (about £6.50).

Sukiyaki lunch at 今半

I decided to push the boat out a little, and ate at Imahan (今半), within the Takashimaya department store in Shinjuku.

 I felt really hungry, so I went for the 特盛牛すき焼弁当 (large beef sukiyaki lunch set) which has 1.5 times the meat of the normal-size version.

 Sukiyaki, if you've not tried it, is where you dip the meat/tofu/ vegetables (pre-cooked in sauce) into raw egg before you eat it. The rice also had free refills, and the miso soup was great. I hadn't had sukiyaki for quite some time (it's often a winter dish) so it was a really nice treat!

“Natural” Lawson

This won't mean anything to people who aren't in Japan, but last night I passed a shop called Natural Lawson, and had to go in for a peek. Lawson (of the non-natural kind) is a chain of convenience stores (コンビニ) across Japan - possibly the second largest chain after 7-11.

 Came out with a raspberry smoothie from Sweden (smoothies, like "real" fruit juices, aren't popular and thus aren't readily available in Japan), a French grapefruit tea drink, and a bottle of Natural Lawson mineral water.

 It's pretty interesting to see this store as health food shops generally don't seem to exist in Japan, so perhaps this is paving the way for things to come.

Taiwanese dumplings

A visit to Tokyo means a visit to Din Tai Fung (ディンタ イフォン in Japanese), a Taiwanese chain restaurant. We had a couple of plates of both the 小龍包 (pork and broth-filled dumplings) and the 海老蒸し餃子 (steamed prawn gyoza). Very satisfying!

Gundam in Odaiba

The life-size (i.e. giant) Gundam (ガンダム) in the middle of Shiokaze Park on the man-made island of Odaiba will only be there until the end of August, so I took the opportunity of taking the train there to have a quick look.

 It's actually my first trip over to Odaiba, and I have to say it was really good to see the sea as well.

 Despite it being a weekday it was still predictably crowded, but I imagine being the last weekend that the next couple of days will be a lot worse! There was also not a cloud in the sky which made the walk from the station seem that much longer. And guess who forgot the sun cream this morning; think I'll be red tomorrow.

The Great (Avocado) Burger

Lunch at The Great Burger: http://www.the-great-burger.com

牛丼 again? Yes, with aubergine

牛丼 and 中華そば at Ichibun

It starts here

Let's go!