Ramen Fantasista (part 2)

I wrote about part one a few weeks ago, and part two of the yearly Ramen Fantasista is taking place between the 16th and 28th of October, where the chefs all switch round and we are given three new types of ramen to try.

So yesterday I dutifully went again with ramen-lover-extraordinaire Yuzo to taste the second batch. We went with two orders of the 醤油ラーメン (soy sauce flavoured soup - photo 1) and one of the 信州肉味噌ラーメン (miso fish-flavoured soup with meat - photo 2). The 醤油ラーメン seemed to mix pork and fish flavours, like a 魚介, but with a very mild taste. Yuzo commented that it was almost a 塩らーメん (salt-flavour soup) in taste and thickness.

The 肉味噌ラーメン on the other hand was very strong in flavour with an almost cheesy taste to the slightly spicy meaty sauce; almost similar to a pasta! Yuzo and I quite liked it, and in fact he ended up ordering it as his second bowl.

As my second bowl I tried the third ramen variety (photo 3) which offered both pork meat and smoked chicken meat (which I wasn't a fan of, being smoked) in a thick soup not unlike 豚骨 (tonkotsu) but supposedly with prawns also included somewhere in the soup mixup. The inclusion of prawns unfortunately excluded it for Yuzo as he's allergic, but with the organic soba-like noodles it made for a nice taste. Very thick though, so I don't think I could have managed more than half anyway.

Overall though, from all six Fantasista ramens available over the four weeks, I think my favourite has to be the 醤油ラーメン from part one last time as that really was a great taste for me.

I won't be in Japan for next year's event, but I'll hopefully be back in 2011 to try them all again!

Just enjoyed one of my favourite ramens at Waichi with @hinazo10

Casamingo’s chocolate Sacher Torte cake

Today we visited Casamingo, a fantastic cake shop which I've written about before.

As you can see by the label that came with the box, this is the shop owner's son's creation because, as I wrote about previously, he trained in Vienna, so his cakes are more Austrian in nature (as opposed to his father's which are apparently more German).

The cake itself is reasonably small - we went for the smallest 12cm size which costs ¥2600 (about £17) - but they sell larger sizes too. It looks the business and cutting into it reveals the marmalade-like jam in between the two sandwiched halfs and also under the icing at the top. This jam adds a really nice flavour to the cake and also makes it less dry, so it becomes very easy to eat it without any cream or anything extra.

Very delicious indeed. I might also take my brother to the shop next week if we get a chance, as he's visiting me from the UK, and he – like me – is a real cake fan.

Mackerel (鯖) sushi

The back row cooked and the front row raw; one of our dishes at dinner. Not a favourite though.

Today’s home-made bento: beef, egg and spinach on rice

Ramen three (Togura)

Finally then, after enjoying one average ramen and one horrendous ramen at the two previous places, we thought that we should finish the day on a positive by visiting a place in Togura (戸倉) on the way home, which Master has been to before and knows is good.

Here there was no bad smell, no dirty bowls, just tasty ramen. The lady there was pleasant, and there were some hairy potato heads on the window ledge beside our table which she assured us had had their hair trimmed recently.

We all ordered the standard (醤油) ramen and left very satisfied. My only slight negative was the thin noodles which, despite eating as fast as I could, quickly went softer than I ideally like. Still, everybody else there prefers thin noodles so I didn't say anything. Master wouldn't take any money from us again though - ごちそう様でした!

When we left we drove back separately; a good end to a nice long (and interesting) lunch trip. Lets hope we can do it again soon! I do love my ramen.

Ramen two (Sakudaira)

After the first ramen place we rushed to get to the second, Rikimaru (力丸), before our stomachs told us we were full. Or that was the logic anyway. I'll prefix the rest of the post by stating that the reason for choosing this restaurant was that this follows the last place we went as the second most popular ramen place in Saku.

We took the last two parking spaces out the front and went in. My god what a stench! It was pretty awful, sitting somewhere between mouldy parmesan cheese and feet that haven't been washed in three months, at least to my nose. The others were also really surprised, with Master describing the smell as similar to an old dishcloth that has been left to get damp and fester for a long period of time.

So while holding our noses we checked the menu and ordered:

- two fish-and-pork-flavour soup (豚と魚介の醤油) - photo 1
- one pork-flavour soup (豚醤油) - photo 2
- one fish-and-pork miso-flavour soup (豚と魚介の味噌) - photo 3

Ten minutes later they came, and my word did they look unappetising. I think we were all pretty taken-aback by the dirtiness of the bowls - they looked like they hadn't been washed for ages, as they had what looked like old soup marks on both the inside and outside - and the scum on the surface of the soup. According to Master, who himself has cooked ramen in his restaurants for years, it means he just doesn't take care to scoop out the natural residue left by the meat when cooking the soup.

Of course that was before we'd even tasted them. Absolutely disgusting! And it wasn't just me (who had one of the two 豚と魚介の醤油) but everybody. Everybody agreed though that the worst tasting was Master's pork-flavoured one; hideous! Not one of us could finish our ramen, even Master who is a seasoned ramen eater.

Needless to say we all left as silently as possible, and Master ended up paying for the lot, apologising for his choice of restaurant. To be fair though looking some other reviews of the place they're all reasonably positive. How?!

Outside we all decided to go and look for somewhere where we could wash the taste out of our mouths with some coffee or tea. There is a Starbucks in Saku inside the JUSCO, so I bought us all a coffee and we all laughed about our experience of the number two ramen restaurant in Saku.

Ramen one (Sakudaira)

We arrived at the first restaurant Bunzoh (文蔵) at about 11.40 and there were 3 or 4 people already eating. Apparently it's rated the most popular ramen restaurant in Saku. The walls were covered with posters making it look a bit like a 'Yankee' diner inside. We each ordered a different ramen:

- one with pork-flavour soup (豚骨醤油) - photo 1
- one fish-and-pork-flavour soup (豚骨魚介) - photo 2
- one pork-flavour soup with extra pork meat and an egg (文蔵ラーメン) - photo 3
- one miso-flavour soup (味噌豚骨) - photo 4

Mine was the 豚骨魚介 - the fish and pork one - and I enjoyed it quite a lot. It's quite a thick soup, pretty fishy in taste, and the noodles were fat ones which I prefer as they take longer to become soft (I *hate* soft noodles) so I don't have to rush so much to eat it. It was 750 yen (about 5 pounds) and I'd definitely go back for another. Everybody was quite surprised I enjoyed it so much actually, as they all tried the soup and thought it was pretty darn fishy.

Of all of them the miso-flavoured ramen was my least favourite; in fact I'm pretty sure if I'd have ordered it I couldn't have finished it. Master, who ordered it, thought it was 'average', but the rest of us thought it was a pretty weird taste and not really very miso-like. I guess we were all reasonably happy with the place overall, but it's a little hard to believe this is the number one ramen place in Saku.

Extended lunch trip to Sakudaira for some ramen

At 10am this morning we met up with the owner of our favourite local eaterie Ichibun - which I've written about several times before. He and his wife had suggested that on their one day off (Tuesday) we go with them on a trip to eat a ramen or two out of town. Because their car is quite a small one, we took two cars, which meant we could play our own music on the iPod (with iTrip) and perhaps come back separately. They had first invited us last Tuesday, as they were going to Omachi (大町) for ramen, but unfortunately we couldn't make it due to prior commitments. 

The owner (whom we call 'Master', out of respect for him being the owner of the restaurant) uses a blog called ラーメン夫婦坂 as a guide to which ramen restaurants are popular and tasty in Nagano prefecture. It's written by a married Japanese couple who love ramen.

So anyway off we went to Sakudaira (佐久平), located about 70km south-east of Nagano city.

Here are links to the later posts about the ramen restaurants we visited:

- Ramen one (Sakudaira)
- Ramen two (Sakudaira)
- Ramen three (Togura)

Today’s home-made bento: チャーハン and spinach, with miso soup

Cakes at Casamingo

Went today to Casamingo a little way up route 18 from Nagano, and their refrigerated counter of cakes is a serious treat for the eyes.

All of the cakes inside the thatched European-style building are made by a father and son team, with the father making the ones on sale in the shop, and the son making the ones they sell via their website. The father's cakes are apparently more German in nature (the sponge slightly harder for example) while the son's cakes are more Austrian, as he trained in Vienna.

The son brought out a scrumptious-looking pear tart he'd just made, which I had to photograph.

Of course we couldn't then leave there without purchasing some cake(!) so we chose pieces of three different cakes; chocolate sponge, raspberry-topped cheesecake and butter-cream roulade. Because they are unusual they do cost quite a bit; around 500 yen per slice (£3.50).

Very much enjoyed a sushi lunchbox from Tokyu

It came with home-made miso soup, and was cheap at ¥490 (£3.50)!

This morning 祐三 went into hospital for his operation

So it's time for a ナストマト牛丼 lunch before visiting hours start.

Helly Hansen bag

Apparently Helly Hansen has been making products since 1877! But that had no bearing on my purchase of a new bag for my MacBook Air; I just thought it looked cool.

I found it yesterday in the Ikebukuro branch of the Tokyu Hands department store, and went back today to buy it after checking some other stores. I love the small red highlights on an otherwise black and white bag, but the main thing that sold me was the dedicated laptop pouch inside that *perfectly* fits my MBA in its sleeve.

Tepito for the best Mexican food in Tokyo

That's according to my Mexican friend Esdras, with whom Yuzo and I went tonight. Tepito is located in the Shimokitazawa (下北沢) area of Tokyo, just one train stop on the express train from either Shibuya or Shinjuku. It is run by a Mexican guy and his Japanese wife (who speaks fluent Spanish) and the chef Gabriel is also Mexican.

The three of us arrived before the live music started, and what we experienced was quite unexpected. The musicians were Japanese who have lived in Nepal for 15 years, and throughout the 2-3 hours that we were there they performed a variety of music and dance from Nepal accompanied by a few different instruments and a sound system. The guy also demonstrated (with explanations in Japanese) the different sounds that could be made with his drums. There are a couple of short videos at the bottom, but they can't really do it justice.

Some of the food we enjoyed was Tacos de Carnitas containing pork (photo 2), Tacos al Pastor also containing pork but with pineapple for added sweetness, delicious chorizo sausage with tortillas (photo 3), guacamole with nacho chips, and Pancita soup which is made from part of the stomach of a cow. Unfortunately neither Yuzo or I liked the soup very much; we found it a little bitter. But Esdras nearly cried he was so happy to eat it again after four years (the last time he was in Mexico).

For drinks Yuzo and I had Bohemia beer which tasted similar to Belgian white beer to me, while Esdras enjoyed not one but two drinks. The one on the right is wonderfully sweet Agua de Tuna, which comes from a fruit (called Tuna) that grows on a type of cactus, while the left-hand one is a sweet milk drink called Horchata which is made from milk and rice, and then sweetened with vanilla, sugar and cinnamon.

We finished off with flan (Mexican-style creme caramel pudding) and of course the mandatory round of Sauza Gold tequilas, drunk straight of course without the pictured salt and lemon.

Ramen Fantasista (part 1)

Between the first and twenty-eighth of October the yearly Ramen Fantasista is being held on the restaurant floor of the Tokyu department store in Nagano. It consists of three chefs or groups of chefs coming up with different ramen dishes for people to try. Last year I went, and it's nice to be able to eat some flavours of ramen that perhaps one cannot usually eat in Nagano.

The four-week event is split into two two-week sessions, with three lots of chefs in each session. Thus in the four weeks we're able to try six different flavours of ramen if we so desire.

On the third of October I went for the first time and took along a fellow ramen lover, Yuzo. Our first order was for one of the 豚骨ラーメン (Tonkotsu - quite a think strong soup) and the 醤油ラーメン (soy sauce flavoured soup). Finishing them pretty quickly, we decided we'd order the 味噌ラーメン (miso fish-flavoured soup) one to share. That way we got to try all three varieties, but it meant I left there feeling very full!

My favourite was definitely the 醤油ラーメン and I ended up going back on my own today for a second helping of that one.

Originally though I only managed to take photos of the 豚骨ラーメン (first) and the 醤油ラーメン (second), as when the final 味噌ラーメン arrived I forgot to photograph it before diving in.

Souvenir from Tokyo: grapefruit jelly in a grapefruit

The bag and box show the name Ginza Sembikiya (銀座千疋屋) which I was told is a famous shop that was featured on the TV recently. Opening it I saw two wrapped whole grapefruits. "Eh?" I said, after it didn't quite match my expectations of a scrumptiously sweet cake or dessert. However after unwrapping them it became clear, the grapefruits were chocked full (and I mean seriously no space spared in the hollowing-out and filling process) of absolutely delicious grapefruit jelly. Yum!

Needless to say quickly consumed. Apparently each one cost 700 yen (4-5 pounds) but well worth it for a special treat.

Photos from last night’s festival in Amori

Amori (安茂里) is the area outside Nagano city where we live, and once a year they have a festival. Considering Amori is just a suburb the festival is surprisingly large and impressive.

The festival takes place in and around the Saigawa shrine (犀川神社) nestled in the trees about 5 minutes walk from our apartment. Leading up to it were a few food stalls around which dozens of children hang out, buying food and toys, and saying hello to foreign-looking blokes (me). For the festival, a metal framework is built around the shrine grounds, onto which lanterns, fireworks and crackers are attached.

Inside the grounds the throngs of people were finding space to sit or stand, and were directed by the many marshals so that they stay clear of the areas where the various firecrackers are let off. You can see this in the first photo, with the shrine's entrance to the right.

At 9pm the performance begun, and lanterns and wooden portable shrines (神輿) were carried in and the lion dancing started. Lion dancing (獅子舞) I'm told is done to pray for a good upcoming harvest - for the rice, apples and other produce in our area - and also for the coming year. There were two types of dances performed, one in a solitary red outfit, and then one with three lions dressed in black, with long cloaks used to move them into various positions. I've been told the fact there are three lions for the second dance possibly represent three separate districts of Amori. Surprisingly the three black lions don't dance in rhythm with each other, instead each seemingly doing their own thing, but the dancing is accompanied with more playing of the wooden flutes and drums, and sporadic lighting up of lanterns and firecrackers around the perimeter.

At each end of the arena there were sets of huge catherine wheels which let out a loud scream as they turned and threw sparks out everywhere. I was just a few feet away so it was pretty impressive. The last photo is a lit version of Marukome Boy (マルコメ君), a mascot for a large local miso company. I have no idea why the relation, but I guess it's tradition that it's used here. Anyhow it's colourful.

Of course there were also proper fireworks sent up into the sky at various points, but without a tripod or video function, and with the partial tree cover overhead from where I was standing, it was somewhat tricky to get anything decent in the way of photos. As a finale they let fireworks fly on wires above the heads of the crowd, which then light up sparking firecrackers up in the trees. These let out huge amounts of sparks which fall onto the ground, and the heads of people who don't heed warnings from the marshals to clear the area. The first time I went and experienced this it was so strange; here are the Japanese, usually a cautious people, doing something that wouldn't be allowed for health and safety reasons in my own country. I should mention though that all around the outside I noticed the marshals carrying and using extinguishers of some sort to make sure none of the plant life caught fire - definitely important considering the location.

In all it lasted around 90 minutes, and thankfully the weather stayed clear.

Some lanterns up, ready for the yearly local festival in Amori tonight

I'm glad the weather is looking good, as last year it was a complete washout. It's easily the most exciting (and possibly scary) fireworks I've seen in Japan, as at times they fly right above the heads of the crowds, and sparks come down everywhere. Should be able to get some nice photos with my 40d, which I haven't used properly for quite some time.

Home-made beans on toast!

Amazing, the small things. When I lived in the UK I hardly ever ate baked beans but the last time I went back I had them a couple of times and really enjoyed them. So the last time I brought a couple of small cans back with me as I had space to spare in my suitcase. And so without further ado, here is today's lunch - baked beans on toast!

 Okay, so perhaps it doesn't look so appetising, but I really enjoyed it. I added some grated cheese on top for the finishing touch. I definitely think though that the small cans aren't quite enough for one person (but two small cans, or one larger can, is too much). But I've got one more can in the cupboard for next time I feel like Heinz Beanz.

Korean bibimbap lunch

Went for a quick lunch to Red Pit in one of the many department stores above Shinjuku station. I'd searched it out online as somewhere near the bus stop where I can get a good Bibimbap (ビビンバ). I absolutely love 石焼ビビンバ (bibimbap served in a hot stone bowl) so I went for the variation with kimchi. On top of the rice was a raw egg, spicy sauce, beef, beansprouts and spinach. Because the bowl comes stupidly hot, stirring the dish before you eat it cooks the egg and makes the rice nice and brown. Last time I ate it I managed to catch my hand on the side of the bowl, so I was very careful not to do the same again this time!

Curry take-away from CoCo

I went round the corner to the local CoCo壱番屋 for a take-away curry, and got a keema curry with naan. Nice and spicy!

Sometimes we fail with our choice of restaurants…

The prospect sounded good; a pizza restaurant called Fioravante owned by an Italian in a Small Italy-type area of Shinbashi. Unfortunately despite being greeted by an Italian lady and the waiters and waitresses all being Italian, for some strange reason the guy in the kitchen was Japanese. An Italian-speaking Japanese, but nonetheless still surprising for us. Also the service was hardly Italian-like, and wasn't friendly at all; I didn't see the owner smile once the whole time.
 
Their lunch set gave a choice of the pizza of the day - today was potato and mozzarella (a decidedly non-Italian combination) - or either the plain margherita or marinara alternatives. We had one margherita and one marinara as part of the 1000 yen (6 pound) lunch set, which included a salad, a couple of pieces of (possibly yesterday's) bread, and a tea or coffee. So not very expensive, however the pizza was really not very good; the tomato sauce on both pizzas was sweet - as is so often the case in places outside of Italy - and we didn't enjoy either of them. Below is a bad photo courtesy of Mr. Blurrycam.
 
Ah well, better luck next time. I still want to go back to Sciue' Sciue' in Shibuya as I rated their pizza much better when I first went 3-4 years ago. Last time I tried to go, however, it was closed for renovations.

Late evening meal at キムカツ

After our late lunch we weren't really that hungry until later in the evening. Beforehand we'd walked through Shiba Park to the base of the Tokyo Tower, so we then felt more like eating again.

 The restaurant in Ebisu, on the west side of Tokyo, is called キムカツ (pronounced 'kimukatsu') and is famous for its tonkatsu. Instead of being a single piece of pork like most tonkatsu, the variation served here is made up of thin layers of pork, with some of the dishes having fillings including cheese, onions, garlic, black pepper etc. Tonight we went for a plain and a cheese, and they come with rice, cabbage (with free refills), miso soup and a drink. They gave us a choice of white or red miso soup, and we both went for the red (pictured below) which has quite a strong flavour. Finally there are two types of sauce to dip the tonkatsu in before eating with rice and cabbage.

 Of course being evening, and with me not having to drive, it had to be accompanied with a deliciously chilled beer! It was quite an expensive dinner in the end, costing 5190 yen (nearly 35 pounds), but we don't get to eat there too often and it's one of our favourite katsu restaurants.

Overlooking Tokyo Tower

Staying in the brand new (built this year) My Stays (マイステイズ) Hotel in Hamamatsucho (浜松町), which is very close to the Tokyo Tower - less than 1km I would guess. The room is on the 14th floor so I have a great view of the tower. Of course being Tokyo it's certainly not an unobstructed view, but it's good enough for me!

 Despite having been to Tokyo more times than I can count on my hands, I've never visited Tokyo Tower. (Well it's just a smaller and less impressive Eiffel Tower isn't it, and I've been to the top of that.) Anyway I very much doubt I will make the trip up the tower tomorrow, but will instead just spend some time walking around Shiba Park as it looks to have some very beautiful old buildings and structures inside and out.

 Here are a few photos of the view from our hotel room window.